This story is part of On Repeat, a series in which we ask top chefs, cookbook authors, and other famous foodies about the dishes they just can’t quit.
When we caught up with cookbook writer and longtime food stylist Susan Spungen for this week’s edition of On Repeat, she told us about a quick curry tofu stew she keeps in heavy rotation. “I actually just made my own recipe last night, and it was so good,” she says. “I had lots of bits and bobs of veggies in the house, and we are preparing to leave for a few days, so it was perfect.”
Spungen, who shares her recipes and tips at Susanality on Substack and whose newest book is Veg Forward, also reiterated a pro food-styling move that makes the verdant recipe even more appealing: “Purée some of the liquid with some greens if you want that gorgeous color that thematically goes with the green curry you’re using.”
Why I love it
“This stew was originally created to make something very flavorful and very easy using whatever veggies you have. The reason I made it the other night was that we had all these CSA vegetables. We belong to Quail Hill Farm, where you pick your own, and we inevitably pick more than we need. I was not only trying to incorporate them but trying to finish some things up before leaving town. I realized how wonderfully adaptable this stew is.”
What I’ve changed
“You can use whatever veggies you want or have; just remember to put the long-cooking ones in for the simmering step, and cook them until tender, then add the quick-cooking ones in at the end—along with the tofu. This time, I used hakurei turnips, kohlrabi, and maitake mushroom in the beginning, and finished with snap peas, asparagus, and bok choy. I also skipped the chickpeas, and finished with four kinds of basil from the garden. I put it over black rice, but you can use any rice or any grain.”
What else I’m into right now
Extending strawberry season. I’m very into strawberries at the moment. I eat them every day, but every time I buy them I also freeze some so I can use them later in smoothies and sorbets. The summer is so fleeting, so I try to preserve the moment.
Strawberry hulling tool. A lot of people don’t bother with hulling strawberries, but it’s a low-waste thing because if you chop the top off, you could be wasting a third of the strawberry. I have this huller that I like by Oxo. Sometimes the stem is pretty embedded, and this tool is so ergonomic: It feels like an extension of your fingers and you just pinch off the greens. It’s a really nice way to use most of the strawberry. [Editor’s note: Strawberry hulls and greens are edible; you can toss ’em in a smoothie!]
A return to composting. Composting is always a big part of everything we do in the kitchen, but sometimes in the winter we don’t compost everything because it’s too cold and wet. So it’s nice to be composting again.