Grilled cheese has its moments, but if what you really crave is a handheld with texture, the delicious contrast of a Japanese-style katsu sandwich is hard to beat. In it, fluffy bread, crunchy cabbage, and a crispy pork cutlet (tonkatsu) exist in harmony, while a sweet, zingy sauce holds it all together.
We’re, of course, going meatless and swapping the pork for a slab of fried tofu. But to really nail the cutlet texture—and avoid a soggy sandwich—we’re also deploying one of our favorite tofu tricks: freezing. Tofu contains a lot of water, and freezing it causes all those ice crystals to expand. What’s left behind is a flavor sponge that’s chewier, meatier, and holds its shape perfectly in a sandwich.
The final frying flourish for making a perfect tofu katsu is using mayo instead of plain old eggs to adhere the breadcrumbs to the tofu slabs. The creaminess helps bind the panko to the tofu better, and the extra fat creates a supremely golden crust. Let’s just take minute to appreciate this crunch…
All that’s left to round out the sando is thinly sliced cabbage for some fresh crunch, a swipe of mayo (if you like), and tonkatsu sauce. You can buy the Japanese-style barbecue sauce, but it’s easy to make a quick version that hits all the sweet, salty, and umami notes with just a few pantry staples. When it comes to the bread, the fluffier the better: Milk bread is traditional, but brioche or white sandwich bread will do. If you decide to trim off the crusts—as you’d do in a classic katsu sandwich—freeze ’em for future breadcrumbs or croutons.
Tofu Katsu Sandwich
Yield: 2 sandwiches
Ingredients:
8 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
½ cup mayonnaise (plant-based if you prefer), plus more for sandwiches (optional)
½ cup ketchup
2 tablespoons soy sauce or liquid aminos
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Canola oil, for frying
4 slices milk bread, brioche, or white bread, lightly toasted
2 cups finely shredded green cabbage
Procedure:
Prep and freeze the tofu. Pat tofu dry with a kitchen towel. Slice into four ½-inch-thick planks and pat dry again; freeze for at least 4 hours. Thaw, drain, and pat dry again. Season them on both sides using ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper (total).*
Set up your breading station. On a plate, combine the panko and remaining ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Add the mayo to a small bowl.
Make the tonkatsu sauce. In another small bowl, stir together ketchup, soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic powder, and ginger.*
Bread the tofu. One by one, dip both sides of the tofu planks in the mayonnaise and shake off any excess. Press into the panko to coat, and lay on a baking sheet. Repeat with all the tofu.
Fry. Heat a 1-inch layer of oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Fry tofu, in batches if necessary, until crisp and golden on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a wire rack to drain.*
Build the sandwiches. Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise (if using) on all four slices. Top two of the bread slices with two tofu cutlets each and drizzle with tonkatsu sauce. Top each with half of the cabbage and cover with remaining bread slices, mayo side down. If desired, trim the edges of the bread. Slice in half and serve.
Notes and Substitutions:
If you already have slabs of frozen tofu, just thaw, pat dry, and season with salt and pepper.
To air-fry the tofu: Spray the basket with nonstick cooking spray. Air-fry at 400 degrees F for 10 to 12 minutes, flipping halfway, or until golden brown.
This might make more tonkatsu sauce than you need, but you can refrigerate it for up to two weeks. It’s delicious on all fried foods as well as eggs, rice, and crispy potatoes.