This story is part of On Repeat, a series in which we ask top chefs, cookbook authors, and other famous foodies about the dishes they just can’t quit.
This week’s On Repeat recipe involves one of the building blocks of Indian cuisine: dal. Specifically, this veggie-rice soup with dal from Maya Kaimal, author of cookbooks including Indian Flavor Every Day and founder of an eponymous line of plant-based Indian sauces, soups, chanas, and dals.
In Hindi, dal refers to pulses—the dried seeds of legumes like beans, lentils, and peas—as well as the dish (with myriad variations) made by simmering them with spices and vegetables. “Dal is an important source of protein for Indians, especially those who aren’t eating any animal products,” Kaimal says. “It’s an inexpensive way to have your protein, and when you pair it with rice you’re getting all your amino acids.”
Kaimal’s recipe calls for a couple of her packaged products (pre-spiced split green peas and a turmeric-tinged rice), but she’s all for using what you have on hand instead—and more than happy to share how.
Why I love it
“I love to make these fridge-clearing soups, and I’m always thinking about what I can put in my soup to make it more interesting. I don’t feel like the vegetables are satisfying enough—I always want something hearty in there, some kind of bean component. I like to find things that have texture and protein, and rice and dal work very well.
“When I make dal from scratch, it makes a good amount and we probably don’t eat it all at once. It’s perfect because not only does it bring in that more filling quality, but it also thickens the soup. It breaks down and you get this thick stew-y texture.”
What I’ve changed
“If I’m not using the packaged goods, which contain spices, I do the Indian thing. After sautéing the onion and other raw vegetables, I add ground spices. You want to add them before any liquid situation, when the oil is nice and hot, so they can fry and develop their flavor. Coriander is a nice basic base note; it doesn’t draw a lot of attention to itself, but it kind of lays down a layer of flavor that makes the dish more interesting. I might add some cumin and a little cayenne. If I want some color, I might add a little turmeric, and maybe some black pepper.
“If I’m not using the packaged dal and I don’t have homemade dal around, then I’ll take a can of cannellini beans or pinto beans, or something else that breaks down nicely with a little potato-mashing action. I mash up those beans at the end of the cooking. And if I don’t have rice, I’ll use any leftover grain I have in my fridge—could be farro or quinoa or even some orzo.”
What else I’m into right now
Recycled cooking oil. I’m very good about reusing my oil if I’m doing any kind of deep frying, unless I’m doing fish that has a powerful flavor to it. I cool it, strain it, put it in a jar, label it, date it, and keep it in my fridge for the next time I want to do some deep frying. I can’t bear to throw oil away.
Fried potato peels. Something that a friend at work taught me how to do: If you scrub your potatoes nice and clean and you’re peeling them, you dry the peelings, cut them up, and then fry them until they’re crispy. You sprinkle them with salt and wow, they’re so yummy. They make a really nice little snack—or garnish for your soup.
Family-friendly fake meat. We totally eat Impossible meat, because I have a vegan daughter and a carnivorous daughter. I’m always trying to find something that we all enjoy, and it works for all of us.