This story is part of On Repeat, a series in which we ask top chefs, cookbook authors, and other famous foodies about the dishes they just can’t quit.
It was a treat talking with Washington Post food and travel editor Joe Yonan for this week’s edition of On Repeat, because not only is he the author of meat-free bibles like the upcoming Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking and 2020’s Cool Beans (good title!), but he also says he’s found the secret to achieving veggie-burger bliss.
In his version, you chop mushrooms, beans, and various other ingredients by hand. Then—and here’s the dead-simple trick—you bake the patties before pan-frying or grilling them, which firms and sets things up. This, he says, avoids the “purée problem,” in which bean-based patties wind up overly mushy and smoosh out of the bun.
Why I love it
“These are chunky and have a great texture, and they hold together. They’ve got this incredible variety, from a little bit of chewiness from the mushrooms to the starchier bean texture, with a little crunch from nuts. And they stay together without squishing out of the bun.
“After you bake them, you can eat them just like that or if you want you can pan grill them to give them extra texture, or you can refrigerate or freeze them after they’re baked and even cook them later straight from frozen.”
What I’ve changed
“I have a basic recipe and then three options, where I change the spices and the combos. So for example I’ve got a Southwest approach that uses cumin and chipotle powder and cremini mushrooms, with pinto, kidney, or black beans. Or you can go with more of a Mediterranean style that uses za’atar and smoked paprika, white beans or chickpeas, and oyster mushrooms or chanterelles.”
What else I’m into right now
Plates not plastic. When I was developing recipes for the new book, I wanted to avoid calling for foil and single-use plastic because I think the plant-based kitchen tries to be environmentally sensitive. I use a plate or a pot lid instead of plastic or foil to cover leftovers in the fridge. When I put my cookie dough in to chill, instead of wax wrap or plastic I just put a plate on it and it’s fine. It’s useful for so many things.
Rejiggered refrigerator. I’ve taken all my produce out of what I call the “rotter drawer”—not the crisper drawer—and put them in more prominent places in my fridge. I put my condiments in the drawers and I put produce on the door. It doesn’t all fit there, so I also put it in the front of the shelves. Because out of sight, out of mind. If I don’t see it, I don’t use it. Do my husband and teenager like the fact that the mayonnaise is in the crisper drawer? Probably not—but I’m the cook!